Day 20 Chicago to Solomons

Left for Solomons at 5:30 AM. It was a long 12 hour ride. Very uneventful and not too many arguements. It was a terrific three week trip.

Day 19 Chicago

Woke up to another beautiful day, except that Linda suggested that Sylvia and I should join her on a boat archeological tour of Chicago…it was not something I relished doing, but what the hell. As usual I couldn’t have been more wrong. It was an hour and a half long narrated excursion through the rivers of Chicago that included detailed descriptions of all the buildings and each ones history. The views could not really be appreciated except by boat…what a home run. Afterwards we met Larry, Derek and Jessica at P.J. Clarks and had a Bloody Mary. Larry was feeling better by now, so we headed off in an attempt to become more acquainted with the Chicago social scene. The first stop was the Signature Room on the 95th floor of the John Hancock building. It was a beautiful day to take in the city from this fantastic view. We followed this with visits to Hugo Frog Bar, Underground Wonder Bar, Zebra Bar, J’s Dogs, Streeter’s Bar, and Rosie’s Piano Bar…not exactly the most culturally enlightening tour, but it was a lot of fun. The hit of the night was the Chicago Hot Dog at J’s. It doesn’t sound all that great, but it sure hit the spot after too much beer. We were all leaving the next day so it was not a very late evening and we all headed back to our rooms fairly early. Another good day.

Day 18 Chicago

A great day for baseball! Unfortunately, it was not for Larry. He developed some sort of flu and had to spend the day at the hotel. Jessica, Linda, and Sylvia decided on a shopping excursion before the game while Derek and I decided to take the El up to Wrigley early to watch batting practice. The women said they would join us later. I just don't understand why they weren't interested in batting practice? Anyhow, Derek and I got up to Wrigley early and stopped in a famous landmark, the Cubby Bear Pub, for a beer. The whole atmosphere of Wrigley is unbelievable. I've never been to a sporting event that's as unique as a Cubs game, especially sitting in the outfield bleachers. The women joined us just as the game started and while everyone enjoyed it we decided by the fifth inning to leave the stadium and go across the street to Murphy's Pub for a beer. We then took the El back downtown and had a pizza at Giordano's where the stuffed pizza was invented...very interesting. Another great day.

Day 17 South Haven to Chicago

It was a short two hour drive from South Haven to Chicago. Today was the day we were to surprise son Derek. Derek always wanted to go to Chicago and see a Cubs game at Wrigley Field, so Derek's wife Jessica sent for tickets and secretly invited his mother (Linda), step dad (Larry), step mom (Sylvia), and dad (me). The deal was that Sylvia and I were to meet Larry and Linda in the hotel bar and Jessica would drag Derek down to the bar and we would surprise him. I don't know how or why, but it actually worked. He was totally surprised and, even better he really appreciated it. We had a good laugh and went to Gene and Georgetti's for great steaks and afterwards walked over to Harry Carey's bar for drinks. The bar is exactly 60' 6” long, the same distance as home plate is from the pitcher's mound. It was a very good evening. Tomorrow we go to the game and I'm looking forward to a terrific day.

Day 15 - 16 South Haven Michigan

Having never been to Michigan, I wanted to spend a few days on the lake. We decided to do a 430 mile drive from Niagara to South Haven in one day and spend two days just hanging out in the small town. We checked into a B&B and happened to be the only guests. It was a neat town on the lake without much activity. We did find a pretty good place to eat called Tellos Trattoria. Other than that we spent two days walking around, sitting on the porch reading and periodically getting on each other's nerves.

Day 14 Niagara-on-the-Lake

Got up this morning and walked across the street to the Willow Cakes and Pastries...what a good idea that turned out to be. Several hard working women were baking some awesome looking pastries. Sylvia had an herb and cheese scone and I wolfed down an unbelievable Pork Pie. I'd love to get a couple of Pork Pies tomorrow morning for our ride, but they probably won't be open by the time we leave.
After breakfast Sylvia went for a walk but was sidetracked by a decision to stroll up Queen street and all its little shops. I decided to rent a bike and ride the twenty miles up to Niagara Falls. That turned out to be another great idea. There was a bike path along the Niagara river that passed through vineyards, several markets, an arboretum, overlooks, plus it ended up at Niagara Falls. It was an incredible four hour ride that was the same one that Winston Churchill enjoyed so much. Later that day Sylvia and I did the same drive up to the Falls and on the way back we stopped and had a glass of wine at Queenston Heights Restaurant (picture)...what a view. The restaurant was closed, but since we only wanted a glass of wine they were kind enough to open it just for us. For dinner we went to the Old Winery at the recommendation of a local restauranteur that we had met at the bakery earlier in the day. The simple Italian food was a very good recommendation.

Day 13 Wilton to Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario

Got an early start and made an uneventful 450 mile drive from Wilton to Niagara-on-the-Lake. Five years ago we drove through this town on our way from Niagara Falls to Toronto and we decided that someday we would return to this unbelievably quaint little town. Winston Churchill called the twenty mile drive from Niagara Falls to Niagara-on-the-Lake “The prettiest Sunday drive in the world”, and I can't disagree. We checked in and walked down to Queen Street and checked out the main commercial area. It's really pretty, but as usual the tourists inundate the area. We had a few drinks at a little place overlooking the lake and, since we were tired from the eight hour drive, we just stopped at a local pub for an excellent pizza before calling it a night.

Day 11-12 Wilton, New hampshire

The drive from Bridgton to Wilton was both beautiful and pleasant. We spent two days with my brother Randy and his wife Carol. We had a really good visit and the real treat was that their daughters Tracy, Danielle, and Heather surprised us by spending an evening with us along with their husbands and kids. I don't know who was more rambunctious, Tracy, Danielle, and Heather or the grand kids. We had a good time. The next day Randy and Carol treated us to a terrific breakfast at the Union Street Cafe in Milford and a excellent German dinner at Mileaway Restaurant also in Milford.

Day 8 - 10 Bridgton, Maine

We spent the next three days at Sylvia's sister's (Frony) and brother in law's (Alan) beautiful lake house in Bridgton, Maine. We took advantage of the unusually warm weather by spending most of the time outdoors walking, boating, and generally enjoying the fabulous scenery. One afternoon they took us to Ken's Kove restaurant, a terrific little old converted gas station that seated twelve at three picnic tables. Ken served great fish, clams, and lobsters. It's a definite stop when in Bridgton. We had a great time.

Day 7 Nantucket to Kennebunkport

It was a rainy miserable day as we took the ferry from Nantucket to Hyannis. It did clear up though on the drive up coast on route 1A as we passed through some extraordinary New Hampshire and Maine towns. At 4 o'clock We decided to stop and spend the night in Kennebunkport, Maine. We drove by George and Barb Bush's house, but the idiotic doorman wouldn't let us in. So instead we checked in at the old historic Kennebunkport Inn and walked the town. I get hungry for lobster every five or six years and today was one of those days so we found what was supposed to be a good place called Mabel's Lobster House. I proceeded to order a Lobster Bake with Clam Chowder, two dozen clams, a few side dishes and a whole lobster (pictured). I followed that all up with a homemade wild blueberry pie. Sylvia amused herself by sitting there watching me swell up like an old toadfish. It was a great New England meal but, obviously it turned out to be an early evening as I waddled back to the hotel. Tomorrow we head to Sylvia's sister's lake cabin in Bridgeton, Maine where I hope to walk some of this off.

Day 6 Nantucket

Not much different today. Started the day with breakfast at Black-Eyed Susan's followed by champagne at the Boarding House. The Sunday grand tasting wasn't until three, so we hung out at the hotel and drank Mimosas. The grand tasting was about the same as Saturday's so there's not much more to say except that it was very good. It was the last tasting of the event and it was the one that most of the locals attended and the wine makers relaxed a little bit and chatted a lot more than normal. Around six o'clock Mica crashed and Sylvia, Fred , and I went back to the Boarding House for a very, very good dinner. Highly recommended if you're in Nantucket.

Day 5 Nantucket

Today was to be one of the grand wine tastings, so we thought we'd be smart and have a nice breakfast, skip lunch, go to the tasting and have an early dinner. Of course it didn't quite work out that way. Breakfast at Black-Eyed Susans was very good and champagne at Arno's was even better. Sylvia and Mica went shopping and after the champagne Fred and I went to the Whaling Museum where we again ran into JJ. At this point I just knew trouble was brewing. The tasting was at at noon and it was a two hour event that consisted of over 200 wines and tons of food. It was probably one of the better wine events I have ever been too. It was really enjoyable. Afterwards we met back up with JJ and he drove us over to the other side of the island to a very upscale beach restaurant called the Wauwinet Inn. More champagne and a few bites to eat later and we were off again to some other parts of the island. Sylvia and I decided to call it quits (Mica was smarter and had quit a few hours earlier). Fred and JJ headed off into the unknown. For some stupid reason Sylvia and I thought it would be a good idea to go to Captain Tobey's Chowder House for one last drink. Oh well, maybe tomorrow I'll be smarter.

Day 4 Nantucket

Feeling a bit wheezy this morning, we stopped by Lo La for a very good hamburger, after which we went to the wine tasting headquarter's, The White Elephant. There we met JJ, a friend of Fred's from Beaune, France. JJ owns a great wine bar and bistro in Beaune in the Burgundy region of France. Sylvia and I had met JJ several years ago during our stay in there where we had a terrific time. After a few hours at the White Elephant we went to a pig butchering demonstration complete with grilled pork and several Duckhorn wines. It lasted a little more than an hour and was well worth the price. After the demonstration we met JJ again and went with him over to The Cliffside Beach Restaurant to taste some of JJ's wines with the owners of the restaurant. By eight o'clock we were getting hungry and we went back downtown to the La Languedoc Bistro and had dinner. JJ knew the chef and just about about everybody else in the place. It was amazing how many people and been to his bistro. Sylvia and Mica skipped dinner and went back to the hotel early. JJ, Fred, and I were not nearly that smart.

Day 3 Fairhaven to Nantucket

Got up this morning and drove over to Hyannis to catch the eleven o'clock ferry over to Nantucket. We arrived at the ferry early so we walked up to Persy's Place for breakfast and had some savory fish cakes with homemade corn bread. After a pleasant one hour ferry ride, we walked up to our B&B, the Roberts House Inn, where me met our friends Fred and Mica. We checked in and spent the afternoon and evening at the Rose and Crown, Captain Tobey's Chowder House, and The Brotherhood of Thieves. We had a great time, but forgot to eat. Consequently, by nine o'clock we were pretty well in out cups and headed back to our rooms for the evening. The island's beautiful. Hundreds of cherry trees in bloom and it seem like it's snowing cherry blossoms (picture).

Day 2 Bordentown,N.J. to Fairhaven,Mass

Day 2 was intended to be a short five hour drive to somewhere in Massachusetts. It didn't turn out that way as we got caught up in George Washington bridge traffic, a three hour route 95 delay in Connecticut, and more traffic problems near Rhode Island. So late in the day we checked in a motel in Fairhaven Massachusetts. We hadn't eaten anything all day so prior to dinner we drove around and admired the massive and beautiful old wood framed homes that were surrounded by old stately Beech trees. The homes were built in the late eighteen hundreds and early nineteen hundreds by old ship captains. Fairhaven and New Bedford , which is across the river, are the home of the biggest fishing fleet in the U.S. We had very good seafood dinner at Elizabeth's, a small local restaurant in the marina area of Fairhaven.

Day 1 Solomons to Bordentown

We started our driving trip to New England by stopping for lunch at the Tidewater Grille in Havre de Grace Maryland. It's an on-the-water restaurant that serves a fairly decent crab cake. Lunch was fine and we continued up 95 to Bordentown, NJ. The reason we picked Bordentown was that a hundred years ago I spent one miserable year at Bordentown Military Academy prep school and I hadn't been back since. The town at that time was a small worn-out old town comprised of a drug store, a movie theater, and several small dilapidated bars. The school burned down shortly after I left (I'm completely innocent) and was never rebuilt. The first thing we did upon arriving was check in at an EconoLodge flop house and head straight downtown. Instead of a crappy old town, we found ourselves in a charming Federal style village with many restaurants, shops and beautiful old buildings and homes. Totally surprised, we spent the rest of the afternoon and evening wandering around Bordentown. A stop in Jester's Cafe lasted several hours as we chatted with some locals that remembered the school and what the town was like in the sixties. We had dinner there and really enjoyed ourselves before heading back to our flop house, but not before stopping in at Chickie's and Pete's for a nightcap.

Day 13 Old San Juan

I am using the hotels computer so I can't post much new, but we spent the day walking San Juan...again. Has A good Cevichi. We're heading home tomorrow

Day 12 Fajardo to Old San Juan

We arrived back at the Milano Hotel and just walked around town and had a quite uneventful dinner. I don't know where. I don't have much to report.

Day 11 Fajardo

Today we spent the morning in the rain forest at El Yunque National Park. It’s the only rain forest that’s part of the U. S. National Forest system. It goes from just about sea level to 3,700 feet. We spent a couple of hours walking the trails and found it a totally different environment in which to spend time. The variety of trees and bushes is amazing. It was well worth the trip, but after climbing the mountains for a few hours we thought a half a day was plenty. I could easily go back and spend time there.

After El Yunque we stopped at the food quioscos at Luquillo Beach (mile marker 34 on route 3). It has 80 or so food stands that serve mostly Puerto Rican food, but more recently several others have opened that serve different foods such as Peruvian, Italian, American, and Thai. We stopped at a little joint called El Jefe Burger Shack. I had a half pound burger stuffed with braised short rib meat. It was absolutely incredible. They grind their own burgers and pat them out only after they are ordered. The burger was accompanied by hand cut fries. Not only that, they had two dollar Heinekens. Sylvia had a small burger with delicious fried onion rings. I could spend a week there just sampling the foods. It’s a must stop for anyone visiting the northeastern part of Puerto Rico. The rest of the day was spent back at to hotel feeling stuffed. Tomorrow back to Old San Juan for two nights.

Day 10 Patillas to Fajardo

Late last night a family of four arrived from Texas and they had a teenage daughter that fell in love with the little dog. They were planning on staying at the hotel for several days and we were sure they would become attached to the little pain in the ass. This morning we took a last walk on the beach with the dog, and as we were checking out we saw the dog and the girl playing in the sand. I know that family is going to have trouble telling their daughter that she couldn’t take that cute little dog home. We left Patillias with a much better than expected feeling about that dog. In fact, it was a good feeling.

We drove up the coast to Fajardo heading for the Fajardo Inn, but before checking in, we stopped for lunch at a fish shack at a marina in Las Croabas and had more fish, octopus, lobster, and mofongo. The Fajardo Inn is a medium sized resort hotel…just the kind of place that I don’t enjoy. The reason we’re here is to go to the El Yunque National Rain Forest so I suppose I can deal with this place for a few days. There’s not much to do or see in the area so we hung out at the hotel and enjoyed the pool. At night we sat at the rooftop bar and took in the ocean view.

Day 9 Patillas

The morning started off well enough with a brisk walk up the beach after breakfast. When we got up the beach as far as we wanted to go it started to rain, and that was the way it was for pretty much the rest of the day. The only break in the weather we got was around noon when we took a ride up the coast and over the mountains to a few beach towns up towards Fajardo. The mountains are right next to the ocean and the drive there is spectacular. We stopped for lunch at a mountain top restaurant (El Nuevo Horizonte) that overlooked an endless ocean and miles and miles up and down the beach. We had octopus salad, fried calamari and fried pork. It was much more than we wanted, but it was sooo good. We only ate about half the pork, the rest of which we took back to the hotel for our new found friend (see picture). This little puppy, who is much smaller than she looks in the picture, was living on our porch when we arrived yesterday. She was extremely skittish and at first we couldn’t get close to her…the pork cured that. She would follow us everywhere and sneak up and nip the back of our legs. She was really cute, but last night she decided to start barking at the trees or something and I just went outside and politely (sort of) asked her to stop, and she did…women never listened to me before. She really is a fun dog. According to one of the workmen here, people drive by and turn their unwanted puppies loose at the hotel. He said a lot of the guests take them to the vets to get their shots and return home with them. When we first arrived we saw a young couple carrying around a small dog that they we taking back to the states. It sure is tempting, but we’ll be leaving in the morning dog-less.

For dinner we were not hungry, so we stayed at the hotel and sat on the veranda and drank wine instead. Although I did have s bowl of Pigeon Pea soup and Sylvia had a piece of chocolate cake. Tomorrow we’re going up to the northeast coast town of Fajardo.

Day 8 Rincon to Patillas

I’m sitting here writing yesterday’s post while watching the sun come up over the water. The picture was taken from exactly where I’m sitting. I think we picked a nice spot to spend a couple of nights.

Yesterday we left Rincon fairly early and drove south along the coast through the towns of Yauco, Ponce, and Guayama on our way to Patillas. It was only 135 miles but it took all of six hours because we stayed on mostly old roads, plus the police were diverting all of the major highway traffic through the little town of Yauco. Turns out that one of the highway overhead lights needed to be repaired and it wasn’t even in the line of traffic AND they closed both sides of a four lane divided highway!! After we got back on the highway, we saw how long the line of cars was on the other side – folks were making U-turns and heading back in the wrong direction plus just backing up on the shoulder and up the ramps. I never saw anything quite like it.
It wasn’t as nearly a pretty drive as we had hoped for, but we did manage to find a neat beach restaurant for lunch in Salinas. I had eaten seafood twice a day for the past seven days so I was starving for some meat. Damn if the menu had forty seafood dishes and only one meat dish (Carne Frito with Mofongo) and Sylvia ordered it. Damn--red fish for me again.

We arrived at the Caribe Playa Inn in Patilla around four o’clock and were more than satisfied with the location. It’s a small 25 room inn and all the rooms are within 30 feet of the ocean. There are two reefs within 30 feet of the shoreline. We spent the next few hours before dinner by sitting and watching pelicans work the small schools of fish in the little lagoon. The Inn had a little restaurant (see picture again), but the check-in person said that you had to put your food order in at least one hour before you arrived for dinner. We placed our order at six so we could eat at eight, and I ordered spaghetti and meatballs. It was both the worst and best spaghetti and meatballs I’ve ever eaten. Sylvia had Ceviche and cod cakes. It was a nice evening in a nice place.

Day 7 Rincon

This is our last day in Rincon so we just hung around the area, walked several beaches and watched the surfers. A lunch stop back at the Ship Wreck Bar and Grill was definitely a smart thing to do. I ordered an absolutely fantastic fish taco. If anyone ever gets to Rincon, I would urge them to get a fish taco at the Ship Wreck. It’s really, really good. After driving around a bit, we spent the rest of the day at the Lazy Parrot. We finally had diner at the hotel’s restaurant, Smilin’ Joe’s. I had Shrimp Pad Thai and Sylvia ordered Chicken rolled and stuffed with pineapple and yucca mofongo. Everything was pretty good. Afterwards we had a last drink at the Rum Shack. Tomorrow we’re driving to the Southeast coast and probably spending a few days at Patillas. There’s no particular reason to stop there, it’s just a place to stay while we see what’s on that coast.

Day 6 Rincon

Today we decided to drive the northwest coastline. We didn’t see much of anything until we got above Aguadilla where there were beautiful beaches all the way to Isabella. The coast is fairly rugged with frequent rock outcroppings. It’s remarkable that no matter where you go you can find an isolated beach that you can have to yourself…at least during the week. After passing through Isabella, we decided to drive up the mountains to San Sebastian which is a great drive if you’re the passenger. It’s not so great for the driver nor is it for the driver/passenger relationship. On the way back we stopped at a roadside place and had some terrific empanadas. We got back to the Lazy Parrot by late afternoon and just stayed put. We spent the rest of the day chatting with a few of the Rum Shack patrons, all of whom had been coming to the Rincon area for at least the past few years. It seems as though people just keep coming back and a lot never leave. I can understand why. Anyhow, we split an order of fish tacos for dinner and listened to surfing stories. It was an uneventful day…very pleasant.

Day 5 Rincon

I hated to leave the Rum Shack for even a few hours, but we did. Fortunately we left early in the day so I figured we could get back in time to get my proper seat. We drove south along the coast to the salt flats at Cabo Rojo on the extreme southwestern part of Puerto Rico. We drove down a dirt road a mile or two trying to get to the lighthouse, but a car just ahead of us got stuck and slipped off the side of the road. So we turned around and on the way back to Rincon, we stopped at a waterfront restaurant we spotted on the way down called El Bohio in the small beach town of Joyuda. I had another whole grilled red fish with butter, onions and garlic but this time they replaced the eyeballs with olives (nice touch). Sylvia had a conch salad with the biggest pieces of conch I’ve ever seen. Both were excellent. Afterwards the waiter threw the leftover fish over the side of the deck to a school of tarpons that were actually begging for food. It was a pretty good stop. Heading back to the hotel we had to make a pit stop and the Ship Wreck Bar and Grill at the Rincon Marina was perfectly located. However, the guy we sat next to was knowledgeable in just about everything in existence, so we left after one drink. We got back to the Lazy Parrot by late afternoon only to discover that someone had taken my seat at the Rum Shack. Bummed, I went back to the room and pouted. I don’t know why Sylvia was smirking? It wasn’t funny. It took awhile, but that inconsiderate jerk finally vacated my seat and I scooted on down and took up my post--I actually can’t scoot anymore. We had that big lunch so we skipped dinner except to split an order of Shrimp Spring Rolls as we watched the remnants of the surfing crowd parade in and out. Again, we didn’t last long and I reluctantly gave up my post and went to bed.

Day 4 San Juan to Rincon

We got up early and while Sylvia was packing (ugh! men), I walked up the street to another hundred year old city institution for breakfast called La Bombonera. It’s kind of hard to describe as anything other than a diner, but it’s unlike any I’ve ever been to and I’d recommend that anyone who enjoys diners should go there if they’re ever in old San Juan. After breakfast and packing we walked down the street to the Sheraton and picked up the rental car and headed on to Rincon. The drive was thankfully uneventful and we checked into the Lazy Parrot Inn around one o’clock. The Lazy Parrot is small twenty one room inn with a very good restaurant and a small pool bar (Rum Shack) that has its own menu (I think I’m going to like it here). While we waited for our room to be ready, we had lunch at the Rum Shack and chatted with some other guests and were told that we arrived during a major surfing competition. I hadn’t packed my board so I can’t participate, but maybe I’ll enter the Limbo contest as the evening progresses. When our room was ready we took the bags up to the room, did a little drive around town, and went right back to the Rum Shack. We stayed there the rest of the evening and had Sushi for dinner. Since the Lazy Parrot is such a small and cozy place it’s easy to get to know everybody and you have a very friendly atmosphere. This also seems to be a place where locals frequent. Tomorrow we’ll spend more time exploring the area and spend less time at the Rum Shack…yea, right.

I also heard there's going to be some strange event up there. I think it's called snow. I'm not sure what that is but I'm sure you'll let me know.

Day 3 San Juan

The day started off with a walk around the corner to an old Spanish diner for breakfast. It’s called Mallorca and has been around since the forties. I'm pretty sure that the waiters have been there since it opened. It was like going back in time. After a great cup of coffee and a bowl of fruit we walked to several museums. First the Galeria Nacional, then the Museum San Juan. Neither was outstanding, but both were somewhat interesting. We walked around town some more and just took in the atmosphere. We noticed that there were school groups everywhere. Puerto Ricans are very proud of their country and they make sure that children get to know their its history. Old San Juan is a very comfortable city. There are sufficient enough things to do, plenty of good restaurants, extremely pleasant people, and great weather.

For lunch we went up the hill to Aureole on San Sebastian Street where we ate a light lunch consisting of some local appetizers and a small pizza. Once again, the food was good and the service great (and pretty)...a very enjoyable experience. Several hours of wandering the town, including a stop at San Juan Cathedral, brought us back to Lupi’s for an afternoon break at their sidewalk café. After spending quite a bit of time people watching, we noticed that it was easy to identify the tourists from the locals because the tourists were the ones wearing shorts--of course we were too. After Lupi’s, we shopped a bit and headed back to the hotel. We had dinner at La Mallorquina which proclaimed to be the oldest continuously operated restaurant in America. It’s been in operation since 1836. I had a whole grilled red snapper and Sylvia ate an excellent Churrassco steak which is a Spanish styled marinated skirt steak. After dinner we walked the neighborhood and saw that the bars and restaurants were filling up. It was Friday night and the party was on. There were people everywhere and the streets stayed that way until 3 AM. And, no I wasn’t up until three; I just happened to wake up then and looked out the window.

Tomorrow we’re checking out, renting a car, and heading to a small town on the west coast of Puerto Rico called Rincon. We’ve really enjoyed Old San Juan; we’ll probably end up our trip with a few days back here. I had heard San Juan was not a safe place and that there was a lot of crime. We never got that feeling. We walked practically every street in the city and never felt threatened…of course we weren’t out after ten either. I’m sure there are unsafe places in Puerto Rico, but Old San Juan does not appear to be one of them. As I said “we’ll be back”. Like Key West, it’s also nicest when the cruise ships aren’t in port.

Day 2 San Juan

Today was a walking day. According to Sylvia’s pedometer we managed to walk almost ten miles even though it really seemed more like fifteen since we ended up walking for a fairly steady six hours. We started by walking around the bottom of the walls around Morro Castle (old fort), then entered the San Juan Gate and spent the next couple of hours touring the fort and surrounding grounds. The picture on the right shows Morro Castle at the top of the hill. There's a walkway along the water between the water and the wall. It’s truly a pleasant way to spend a few hours (If you double click on the picture you can see people walking next to the wall). There’s a constant warm yet cooling breeze that was very refreshing. I never felt hot. We then walked next to the San Juan wall over to the San Cristobal Castle (another old fort) and wandered around that until lunch time. Both were worth visiting. The history and scenery are equally beautiful. We lunched at St. Germain Bistro, a small place that specialized in fresh fruits, vegetables and breads. We met the owner, a very beautiful young woman, who could not have been more pleasant. The women over here all look like Maria from the movie West Side Story…Sylvia’s about to kill me. By-the-way, the food was pretty good. I had Ceviche again and I forget what what’s-her-name had. After more walking, we stopped for something to quench our parched throats at a tapas place called Toro Salao. We also arranged to pickup a rental car on Saturday to use for the rest of our trip. Prior to dinner we strolled the Princesa Promenade which is a great little tree lined park next to the water that featured large fascinating aerial photographs of the earth. For dinner we chose Sofia, an Italian restaurant that was pretty good. Why anyone surrounded by first-class local food would pick Italian is beyond me, but we did…must be the rum.

Day 1 Solomons to San Juan, Puerto Rico

Ok, it’s cold, so we decided to go to Puerto Rico. I’m not really sure why, but we did. I guess Florida was too easy. Anyhow, we decided to spend the night at a hotel near the Baltimore airport and park the car there for the two weeks we’ll be gone. We got the room and two weeks parking for $115 which was cheaper than just two weeks parking at the airport. We checked in early and drove up to the Canton neighborhood in Baltimore and visited a few of the local establishments. A couple of beers at an Irish pub called Looney’s started us off followed by a stop at a place that Derek recommended called Nacho Mama’s, a Mexican restaurant with a great and very hard to resist menu. One thing I really wanted to try was the Margarita served in an old hub cap that you had to drink with straws…Sylvia was not impressed. I was. After Nacho Mama’s we went next door to a Jessica favorite, Mama’s on the Half Shell. This was our primary destination. We started with oysters on the half shell, followed by a shrimp and grits with tasso ham. The oysters were small, but very good and served very cold with both vinaigrette and cocktail sauces. The shrimp were blackened and placed on top cheese grits with Tasso ham. It didn’t last very long…Sylvia liked them. Feeling fairly full, we were debating on the relative merits of ordering something else as we watched the two guys next to us devour an order of shrimp, mussels, and chorizo in a spicy beer and tomato broth. After catching their breath they told us it was called Beer Mussels. Not to be outdone, we ordered it…very, very good. By then we were hooked, so we split the White Chocolate Bread Pudding with Rum Sauce. I would suggest that anyone going there should try it. We then waddled out to the car and drove back to the hotel. Canton’s a neat little neighborhood to visit if you’re in Baltimore and are hungry and thirsty.

This morning we caught an early flight to San Juan. A cab took us to the Hotel Milano in old San Juan. The hotel is in a great location and is satisfactory (rustic) at best. There are plenty of tourists in old San Juan but not many hotels. We did a quick walk around town and made friends with a local who happened to be the bartender at the Barrachina Bar and Restaurant. It turns out it was in this bar that the Pina Colada was invented. I know this is true because she told me so. The Pina Colada was good even though it was pre-mixed. Another hour of walking and we stopped and had fish ceviche at Lupi’s which is a little bar owned by Ed Figueroa who was a New York Yankee during the same time we lived in New York – the 70s. The ceviche was terrific. For dinner, we walked around town again and settled on a little place up the street called El Restaurante Jibarito. It’s a mostly local family place with complete with screaming kids. Sylvia had real roast pork and I had grouper. Both were good and given enough time in San Juan, I would certainly go back. After another short walk we headed back to the hotel and called it a day. It seemed like a long one.